4/6 Reflector PLL-DLR

January 2021

An issue for not-self Reflectors (don’t believe this hype)

“Are you a Reflector and you want to take your deconditioning seriously, then complete isolation for a month is the best thing you can do for yourself.”

This ends up in a proof/prove (undefined heart/ego) to yourself to do this drama, this does -not- apply to all Reflectors and is certainly not the way to take ‘living your design seriously’.

Yes, this was done by one person and another, and a few more Reflectors, but subsequently adopted as a homogeneous method by many including other Reflectors and Professionals and even Reflector Professionals.

Much that is written about the Reflector can be traced back to the desire to be able to interpret them, and preferably by something they should or should not have -to do-, see MoonBlog 58.4 Focussing.

There are Reflectors who blame themselves for not having done this yet, which is a strange development.
Let yourself be guided by your Strategy and Inner Authority, and not by a good sounding story from anyone else.

If (big if) Strategy and Authority leads you to a month of isolation: great. If not: great.

See for example the discussions about this online on facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/38840257689/permalink/10151607242157690/ or, if this is offline click here
https://www.mcha.nl/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/ReflectorsOneMonthSolitudeNo.pdf

Moonblog 49.6 attraction

reflector sampling, or… not-self? 😉

I once bought a Digital Multi Meter. Hadn’t had one in a while and building guitar pedals, working on motorbikes and what not, they come in handy. So I buy a new one from a so-so brand for about 40 bucks I think. Conrad’s own Voltcraft VC175.

At one point it stops working, all I get are four dashes – – – – and not 0.035volts for instance.

So I try to find another one to replace it, second hand this time, and preferably a brand. I find one that looks a bit crummy but is super easy to use and has all the functions that I think I need and it’s a Fluke, 113 model. Stil twice the price of the other one new, but hey, its a Fluke.

Once home I clean the outside up a little with water and soap and use it, and it’s great. Until I need to do some tests and I get weird results. I even end up sending the pcb elsewhere for testing and finding out what is wrong. Turns out, all the tests run fine, my meter is off ! So seemingly fully functioning, but wrong values.

So I decide to scour the interwebs for advice for another one. Cause I’m not that enthusiastic about getting a ‘better’ 200 bucks Fluke this time, even if I love my gadgets and I like well known stuff, but let’s see what the experts have to say. There I find there are kinda 2 camps, the cheapos and the semi-professionals. The cheapos advice the Aneng AN8008 or AN8009 for about 20 bucks, new, incl shipping from China and the semi-professionals advice the Brymen BM235 which costs about 95 bucks brand new, excl shipping.

I realize one meter is no meter, you need to be able to check yours if anything is off. So I decide to buy them both, it’s only 20 bucks extra and the cheaper one is quite liked too, so why not? I see a funny GM328A meter gadget for 3 pin diodes and whatnot for 15 bucks and get that one too.

Realising also, that my electronic work and interest is growing and that maybe it is time for an oscilloscope too. Go into the deep end of measuring and the semi-professionals kinda agree on the Rigol DS1054Z as a great beginners scope, so that one is in the back of my mind/on the wannahave list. Meanwhile I also read up on calibrating Digital Multi Meters and find the ‘DMM Check Plus‘ which comes with a proper calibration report so you can always verify your meters and their measured results, or compare to each other how precise they are, mmm yum, I like that even better ! 🙂

Slowly slowly the meters arrive, and while I’m making a post about the different meters, I see a picture of the inside of the Voltcraft VC175

And I notice 2 fuses… so I open it up and with the new Brymen BM235 I check the fuses, and the 10A 5600V one is working, but the 0.5A 600V is broken. Would it.. could it be?

I order a few spare fuses and once they arrive I replace the broken one and voilà ! No more dashes and reading normal values….

So now having 4 Digital Multi Meters, of which 3 are working fine (fluke is still flakey), one gadgety one, an oscilloscope and a calibrated meter checker/tester, when all I needed was to replace one fuse? Was it?

Happy sampling ! 🙂
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Rave Nieuwjaar 2021

Het nieuwe jaar wordt jaarlijks ingeluid volgens de Gregoriaanse kalender om middernacht, als we van de 31e december overgaan op de 1e van januari. Weliswaar is dit het einde van de kalender, maar niet het einde van de jaarcyclus van de zon.

Het Human Design Systeem volgt de cyclus van de zon, een kosmisch patroon. De zon begint een nieuwe cyclus op het moment dat hij zijn intrede maakt in poort 41. Poort 41 is een startcodon, het enige startcodon.
Dit jaar treedt de zon poort 41 binnen op 21 januari 2021 om 20:49:33 uur (lokale tijd Den Haag). Op dat moment begint de nieuwe cyclus, het nieuwe jaar. Poort 41, gelegen in het wortelcentrum, maakt onderdeel uit van de stroom van gevoel. Het levert de brandstof van verlangen, de honger om nieuwe ervaringen op te doen zonder enig doel of bijbedoeling. Zonder doel blijkt ook uit de naam van het incarnatiekruis waartoe poort 41 behoort, namelijk het Incarnatiekruis van het Onverwachte.
Een nieuwe ervaring aangaan is abstract, je weet niet wat er gaat gebeuren. Het is achteraf, na de ervaring te hebben meegemaakt, dat je erop kunt terugkijken en er een gevoel aan toekent, bv het jaar 2020 voelde zus of zo voor mij. Dat gevoel wordt opgeslagen in ons geheugen.

Bij de cyclus van de zon schijnt zijn licht bij binnenkomst altijd eerst op de 1e lijn van de poort. Elke poort of hexagram heeft 6 lijnen, waarbij elke lijn een specifieke trilling bezit. De 1e lijn van poort 41, heet redelijkheid, de passende vertegenwoordiging van verantwoordelijkheid.

Laten we in redelijkheid kijken naar wat het programma ons brengt in 2021.
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