Stuff for Nerds

Passive Desktop Monitor Controller

Heritage Audio’s Baby RAM is the ultimate passive-monitoring system, delivering the most transparent signal with the best stereo imaging of any other passive designs available!

The Baby RAM is a boutique, passive-circuit monitor controller inspired by classic European console designs. A Baby RAM is the ultimate controller for total transparency — a zero-compromise signal path, paired with a simplified control set ensures your monitors receive the cleanest, purest signal possible without unnecessary complications.

The Baby RAM proudly features a 4 gang, 24 step rotary switch for volume as opposed to cheaper stereo potentiometers, which means the precision of your stereo signal is perfect on every position as well as offering a subtenth of a dB precision on every single attenuation position! Baby RAM also has no insertion loss, meaning that there’s no extra coloration, signal loss or degradation at any settings.

Even though the Baby RAM packs a zero-compromise circuit design, it couldn’t be any easier to use with 2 pairs of stereo inputs and outputs — both balanced and ground free (unbalanced compatible) on gold plated TRS jacks. Mute, Dim, Mono, and Volume monitoring controls make the Baby RAM a breeze to work with. And with it’s passive design, it also means you have no concerns with bad power supplies, as no electrical current is needed!

The Baby RAM is built with the most cutting edge methods in manufacturing and design, without ever compromising audio quality or cutting corners.
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Taig Peatol Grimberg mini lathe

After not liking some elements of the first lathe I got, the Emco Unimat 4 I went looking for another one, that did have those features or differently than this Emco, while still being quite small in size, but not capability.
An Emco Compact 5 was an option, cause it could also do threading, but most for sale were too expensive for their age/usage and not a lot were offered anyways. The 2 major other ones were Sherline and Taig (also known als Peatol or Grimberg) and even if Sherline also makes a lot of stuff in metric, you just don’t see them sold in EU much, Taig however, even if not metric, was. And then I found one.


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Série 0 Tripan 11

WATCHMAKER START Tripan® kit, plus

Quick-clamping toolholder with double-dovetail triangular body for taking accessories.
supplied with 1 fixing bolt and one 5-mm (13/64″) internal-square key (without toolholder) Weight: .240 kg (.529 lb)

Specification
Rational shape permitting logical positioning of the tool and ensuring unimpeded visibility and optimum clearance when using the centre. Great ease of handling and quick tool changing without retracting the carriage. Constantly accurate positioning of the interchangeable accessories ensured by seat on three faces of the dovetail of the tool-body dovetail. Absolute tool stability achieved by locking with a cam piston and by restricting the overhang to a minimum. Provision for parallel turning with two different tool positions (90° and 30°) without moving the clamping block. The 30° position of the tool is particularly favourable for roughing work, the tool being supported along its axis. The tool holders for drilling and reaming automatically re-establish the parallel position. Adjustment of the cutting height of the tool with the aid of a self-locking screw on each tool holder, avoiding the trouble of using packing pieces. Grinding of the tools without any need to remove them from the tool holders. Possibility of pre-setting several replacement tools for machining large batches. Unlimited number of successive operations possible when machining complex parts, the number depending only on the quantity of tool holders available. Provision for using tools of standard lengths, the projecting portion at the rear of the toolholder causing no obstruction.

Accessories
2-screw toolholder, length 35 mm (1 3/8″), 7.7 x 8.2-mm (19/64 x 21/64″) opening. Weight: .060 kg (.132 lb)
2-screw bar holder, length 35mm (1 3/8″), 7.7 x 8.2-mm (19/64 x 21/64″) opening with vee groove for ø8 mm. Weight: .060 kg (.132 lb)
2-screw bar holder, length 35mm (1 3/8″), 8 x 9.5-mm (5/16 x 3/8″) opening with vee groove for ø8 mm, at 30° angle. Weight: .080 kg (.176 lb)
Cutting-off toolholder, length 35 mm (1 3/8″), for 8 x 2 mm (5/16 x 5/64″) tool with double-cut profile. Weight: .60 kg (.132 lb)


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Touch less. Play more.

AIRSTEP Lite is the simplified version of AIRSTEP, it has removed all hardware control interfaces and only kept the Bluetooth to send MIDI and HID messages. This means that Lite can only connect to mobile phones, tablets, and computers to control software, but cannot control hardware devices. In addition to this, the other functions of Lite are the same as AIRSTEP. And, can be re-programmed (Lite Advanced firmware) to function as an Airstep Play: Foot control the playback, loop, speed and pitch of video & audio on iOS, Android, Mac and PC.

Line 6 M13 Stompbox Modeler

Line 6 kennen we ondertussen al jaren als een bedrijf dat steeds kwaliteit levert, en om de zoveel tijd een nieuw product lanceert dat de rest van de digitale wereld weer op achtervolgen zet. De nieuwe M13 Stompbox Modeler is niet echt een nieuw product, maar eerder een samenvatting van hun gekende prestaties. De immens populaire stompbox- reeks, bestaande uit de DM4, DL4, MM4 en FM4 (drive-, delay, modulation- en filtermodeling), wordt namelijk in deze enkele multi-fx gepropt. Benieuwd of men de kwaliteit en gebruiksvriendelijkheid van deze gekende units heeft kunnen behouden!

ALGEMEEN
Concept
Het concept achter de meeste Line 6-producten is ondertussen wel gekend: je neemt een aantal klassieke effecten of versterkers, en gaat deze zo dicht mogelijk benaderen via digitale technologie. Deze aanpak is ondertussen zo wijd verspreid, dat het bijna makkelijk wordt om te vergeten dat Line 6 een ware pionier is als het aankomt op deze digitale technologie. Voor de M13 biedt men dus een multi-fx pedaal die volledig werkt als een pedalboard met losse effecten. Je kan dus de effecten apart instellen en onafhankelijk van elkaar in- en uitschakelen. Daarnaast zijn er ook nog enkele extra functies, zoals de looper.

Vormgeving
Op dit vlak laat Line 6 zelden of nooit steken vallen, en ook ditmaal is de styling een schot in de roos. De combinatie van de zwarte behuizing en de gechromeerde knoppen en beschermranden geeft een zeer stoer uiterlijk. De verschillende units zijn duidelijk onderverdeeld, en aan de hand van een makkelijk te volgen kleurencodering (zie verder) kan je alles uit elkaar houden.

Handleiding
Ook hier is Line 6 een voorbeeld voor zowat alle ander merken. De handleiding is, zoals steeds, overzichtelijk en zeer informatief, maar weet tegelijk toch een humoristische ondertoon te houden. Je krijgt twee verschillende handleidingen: een voor de exacte werking van het toestel, en een tweede handleiding met alle info over de verschillende gemodeleerde effecten.
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Step file edit with Fusion360

Get this file: https://www.printables.com/model/420062-raspberry-pi-mount-for-din-rail-bracket-fan-mount

Wanting to mount it however to this: https://aliexpress.com/item/1005002245769197.html
which has different mounting holes (47.5mm versus 52.5mm and, need to be for M4)

1.


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Germanium Transistors

For the Aion FX Radian Germanium Boost diy kit

  • OC-44:
    hFE=66
    Ic=.73mA
    Ube=147mV
    ICEO=46uA
    ICEs=4uA
  • OC-125:
    hFE=89
    Ic=1.3mA
    Ube=137mV
    ICEO=.35mA
    ICEs=14uA

The Radian Germanium Boost is an adaptation of the Rangemaster Treble Booster produced by Dallas Musical Ltd. of London beginning in 1965. (Dallas would later merge with Arbiter Electronics to form Dallas-Arbiter, best known for the Fuzz Face.)

The Rangemaster was originally designed to add treble content to somewhat dark British amplifiers such as the Vox AC30, but it took on a life of its own in the hands of Brian May, Tony Iommi, Rory Gallagher, and several other highly-regarded guitarists of that era.

The original Rangemaster was not actually a pedal, but rather a freestanding unit that was intended to sit on top of the amplifier. Bypass was done via a slide switch on the front of the unit, so it wasn’t practical to turn it on and off while playing, and it was used as an always-on tone enhancer.

The Radian is a pedal conversion of the Rangemaster with one big enhancement: a voltage inverter has been added which allows it to be powered with a standard center-negative adapter while maintaining the positive-ground operation of the original. The PCB also includes a biasing trim pot so you can dial in a perfect bias without having to swap out resistors.

The other enhancement is a “Range” toggle switch that lets you choose between a treble boost, mid boost, or full-range boost. The treble-boost effect in this circuit is achieved by first cutting low frequencies, then boosting the whole signal so that the lows are restored to normal and the treble frequencies are emphasized. This toggle switch lowers the low-frequency cutoff point so that less of the signal is cut and more is boosted.

N5X British Overdrive amplifier part 2

I found a second hand Wide Body Mesa Boogie Mark IV combo housing and ordered a corresponding
Aluminum Chassis Mesa Width Style and got some special delivered chassis straps for it and put the DIY Ampmaker NX5 inside

combined with a B-Stock 12 inch 16Ohm Celestion G12H anniversary speaker
for now running with a Mesa 12AX7 and a JJ EL844 ?

One of its greatest features, is the Power pot, a VCB/VVR voltage control kit going from 256 Volts at maximum to 21 Volts at minimum (actual measurements), making overdriving the tubes by diming both Gain and Master pots a breeze, for tasty rock sounds in the living room.

It will pair up with my Marshall DSL-5CR

This was a fun and educational (9 months!) build !
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Keychron K5SE-D3

An ultra-slim full size wired/less mechanical keyboard

ULTRA-SLIM
K5 SE optimizes finger travel and provides satisfying typing experience with the redesigned low profile switch is 40% slimmer than conventional switches. Keychron K5 SE ultra-slim Hot-swappable wireless mechanical keyboard Mac Windows iOS Android Ultra-slim body. Constructed with the streamlined and reinforced aluminum frame, K5 SE is ready to bring an unmatched and dedicated typing comfortability.

COMPATIBLE WITH ALL DEVICES
With just a slide of a button on the side panel, you can multitask without missing a beat by connecting the K5 SE with up to 3 devices via Bluetooth 5.1 and switch between your laptop, tablet and phone seamlessly. You can also connect the K5 SE to your computer with a type-c cable.

ERGONOMIC ANGLE DESIGN
Two level adjustable rubber feet makes the K5 SE more comfortable to type on.

K5 SE LAYOUT
Compatible for both macOS and Windows. Keychron is one of only a few in the market that comes with a Mac multimedia keys layout for Mac enthusiasts.

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MIDI Reimagined

a next-gen MIDI controller
100 banks, more than 80 messages per switch, stackable messages, and flexible MIDI routing are just the beginning. The BRIDGE6 is a compact, next-gen MIDI foot controller with no compromises. A lightning fast ARM processor and plenty of storage means regular and ongoing firmware and feature updates.

Come out of the Dark Age
Connect everything – your gear, apps, and plugins – and control them exactly the way you want with RGB colour feedback and a high-contrast, easy-to-read display. White OLED graphical display and 12 RGB LEDs let you customise labels and text.

Control everything
Configure to your needs with our sleek, intuitive web editor. Export your layout, and use our huge device library to save you hours of setup time. Add wireless MIDI with CME WIDI devices.

Never lose track of time
With two independent MIDI clocks on board, LFOs sync’d to those clocks (or not), and the ability to turn the tempo into analog switch output, or pulse output, you really do have the best of all worlds.

Flexiport Magic
Two 1/4″ TRS jacks give you 12 options from MIDI Out (all TRS types) to Expression In, Aux Switch In, Sync Pulse Out, and our unique Device Link protocol for high-speed communication between PIRATE MIDI devices with Flexiports.

Community driven
Many of the awesome features we’ve implemented have been the result of lots of discussions with you – the one who actually uses the device! We continue to closely and personally interact and chat with anyone who wants to be a part of our community. You can suggest features, tweaks, report bugs, and give us ideas on how to improve your user experience.

https://piratemidi.com/

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Corel Home & Student

“Please reconnect the device that has the file location, or choose a new folder. In the meantime, content will be saved in the Corel default location. You can move the content after the file location is restored” error message

the solution is rather simple, check this location in RegEdit:

These folders (yours may be named or located differently) need to be created (even if empty) in Windows Explorer and then the error message shows itself no more 🙂

Bozzle Tungsten Carbide Nozzle – 0.5mm

The Bozzle nozzle is the very first high flow (and lower back pressure) tungsten carbide nozzle for 3D printing applications.

Tungsten carbide nozzles are capable of printing all 3D printing filaments due to their exceptional hardness, ultra high operating temperature and high thermal conductivity.

0.5mm orifice
No inserts – constructed out of a solid piece of tungsten carbide there are no inserts here
Non stick surface finish
Significantly increased layer to layer adhesion at same printing temperatures vs hardened steel nozzles
Compatible with V6 and MK8 hotend heatblock

This nozzle requires hot tightening. Install the nozzle, heat hotend to 20c over desired use, and hand tighten with a 6mm or 1/4″ socket.

This nozzle will print every material.

Analog Man Prince of Tone overdrive

Description

The POT is pretty much the same as half of the King of Tone, with an external MODE switch standard. It is the same as the KOT with HIGHER GAIN option, so you can use the full range of the DRIVE knob and it has a little more drive at the top than a normal gain KOT. The DISTORTION mode is improved though, for a louder, stronger distortion sound. See http://www.kingoftone.com for more info.

Power Jack is standard on the POT –

The TREBLE trimpot is inside, just like the KOT.

There are also two new DIP switches inside! They are a bit subtle at some knob settings and modes:

DIP1 : LO-MID lift switch. The tone from your lower strings will be enhanced a little when DIP switch is ON.

DIP2: TURBO switch- with higher gain settings you’ll hear deeper compression, especially in DIST mode. You will hear a brighter, crunchier sound with this on at higher DRIVE settings when this DIP switch is ON.

The three modes, as on the KOT, are:

1) Normal Overdrive mode (OD mode): This is the standard King Of Tone sound, – a touch drive available than a tube screamer. Can get much louder than a tube screamer. The RED side of KOT has this setting from the factory.

2) CLEAN mode : This mode has less distortion, it can be used for clean boosts or clearer, louder sounds. It’s sort of a cross between a true clean boost and an overdrive. CLEAN MODE is even less compressed and louder than the OD mode. I love this mode with high drive settings too! The YELLOW side of KOT has this setting from the factory.

3) DISTORTION mode : more drive than the standard mode- a touch of hard distortion. The sound is more compressed, yet retains the pedal’s character. Same volume as OD mode.

At low DRIVE settings, or when playing softly, there is not much difference between the three modes, they all can get pretty clean and have the same level at low drive settings. The ability to clean up when playing softly is a very useful feature of this pedal. The Drive knob works like the KOT with HIGHER GAIN OPTION, so you can set it anywhere and get great tones.

The DRIVE knob taper is different than the KOT. It comes up faster and more linear, while KOT has a lot going on from 2:00 to max. So comparison to a KOT with HG option will not be the same at the same knob position unless it’s up all the way, where they are the same.

We are making these by hand in China by the same people who are making our Analog Delay. Though it’s made in China, we use the same parts as the King of Tone – best Japanese chip and capacitors, not cheap Chinese parts. No surface mount parts, NO ROBOTS, everything is vintage style and hand wired for easy maintenance and repairs unlike most Chinese pedals and most USA “boutique” machine-made pedals which are disposable if they have any problems like a pot, jack, or switch that wears out.

POWER SUPPLY: A Standard Boss PSA120 type 9V DC adapter will work fine. Center is negative. The pedal uses only about 6mA of current at 9V. You can get a fuzzier sound if you want, at lower voltages, for example the SAG mode on the pedalpower2. When your battery dies you will notice the pedal will not get nice and clean, the sound will be hairier. Use a good Alkaline battery or a power supply for best results. You can use higher voltage for more headroom, 12V is common, 18V is safe too. Clean boost may be improved the most with higher voltage.

CHIPS: You can also try other standard dual op-amp chips in the Prince of Tone. Just make sure you put it in the right way, with the pin#1 dot on the side with the chip socket cut-out. The TS-808’s JRC4558D chip sounds good in this pedal, especially with single coil guitars and smaller Fender type amps. You can try a high fidelity chip for the CLEAN mode which may work well.

Size
We made our own case for this pedal, it’s lower and a little shorter than our Beano Boost / Orange Squeezer / large SunFace box, and a little bigger than the Astrotone / Peppermint / small Sunface size.
Size is 2.5″ wide x 4.5″ long x 1.5″ tall, not including switch/knobs/jacks.

Buffer option
If you run through some long cables to your amp, or through some tone sucking pedals (volume pedals, etc) you might want to add the optional buffer inside the POT. If you run the POT into a pedal with a good buffer like our ARDX20, then it’s not needed at all. There is no room for a battery with the Buffer option. The buffer will work great at higher voltages like 12V or 18V also. See our BUFFER page for more info.

Source: Analog Man Prince of Tone overdrive

Single, dual, or triple screw Z?

Single, dual or triple screw Z?
(Part 1)

You will probably notice that most high-end commercial printers use either single or dual lead screws (or ball screws) but seldom 3.

Single screw Z pros

With just a single Z screw there is the least chance of mechanical quarrel. Mechanical quarrel is when two mechanical forces oppose each other and in kinematic systems it usually leads to increased friction or binding if the systems don’t have some compliancy built in.

With a single linear motion system there is only one linear path that the bed should move in. Normally two large diameter heavy duty *smooth rods or a single very wide linear rail are used to create the vertical linear motion system. If two smooth rods are used a single piece bed arm (or cradle) bridges both smooth rods and the screw lifts in the centre of this arm.

A single piece non moving bridge is located at the bottom and often another is place at the top, providing a very rigid mounting structure for the smooth rods capable of overriding any lateral forces a bent lead screw might impart to the bed arm. The lead screw will typically be loosely constrained at one end.

This setup provides a precision of movement and helps produce high quality prints.

There is almost no chance of lead/ball screw induced artifacts.

Nice open access to the bed without obstruction from multiple linear motion systems.

Very simple system.

*In some rare instances two widely spaced linear rails may be used but dual linear rails abut to prevent binding dual linar rails need to be aligned in multiple planes. This normally requires a finely machined surface for both rails to sit on (expensive) or some compliancy need needs to be built in (sub optimal).

Single screw Z cons

Can’t do automatic bed levelling. Bed levelling must be manual.

As the bed is always cantilevered and there is only one bed arm. This bed arm must be sturdy. This generally necessitates it being machined from metal (expensive).

The vertical linear motion system is normally bespoke and the bed arm and supporting structures (for twin smooth rods) are machined from billet for rigidity and accuracy….and hence consequently expensive.

Heavy duty linear bearings are required as they need to cope with the angular loads of the cantilevered bed. All else being equal these bearings also need to be longer for this reason than bearings used on dual or triple screw Z motion systems.

As the bed is only supported on one side it must be thick enough not to flex…which makes in expensive and heavy.

Z movement speed is usually limited to stop the bed ‘flapping’. If you are using Z hop when printing to stop the nozzle dragging across the just printed layer this will increase print times more than you might initially expect.

Bed depth is normally limited, and it is common that the beds will be much wider than they are deep.

As only one screw is doing the lifting it needs to be heavier duty than a two or three screw system and is hence often a ball screw. Ball screws are more expensive than leadscrews.

Summary

A single screw Z motion system with a cantilevered bed is the simplest solution and works great for small bed sizes.

However, to do a cantilevered bed properly you need expensive components and typically a custom machine bed arm, but the reward is a precision motion system without mechanical quarrel or screw induced artifacts in the prints.

Single Z screw cantilevered bed systems are currently the most popular of the designs used in small format commercial printers.

Example below is of a MarkForged printer which is has excellent kinematics and is capable of producing very high quality prints.often

Single, dual or triple screw Z?
(Part 2) Read more

Prusa Mini Bear +

I made an overview of all mods done to my Prusa Mini + ?
With lots of thanks to so many different people on Thingiverse and Printables

Prusa Mini+, mellow V6 alu cold block/heatsink, mellow brass heater block, mellow silicon heater block sock, E3D v6 Titanium heatbreak 1,75 mm (origineel), Bondtech CHT 0.4mm nozzle, LDO Orbiter 1.5 extruder, Weishuo 24V-10A-240W PSU, Raspberry Pi 3a, Argon1 FanHat, Raspberry Pi PSU 5.1V 2.5A MicroUSB, Prusa Stepper motor Z-axis, Misumi Linear bearings kit + superlube, AluX Bear mini 2040 extrusions, GT2x6 mm Kevlar-reinforced timing belt (2,5 meter), USB-USB-c kabel, wiring + plugs, printed parts, High Power MOSFET 30A, fans, PrintBay Heat bed insulation, buck converter

Replace basic Volume2, with bigger HDD

1- Remove disk on tray 1 (named Volume1 in this tutorial), reboot
2- Insert the new bigger disk in tray 1
2a- ‘secure erase’ new HDD, reboot
3- Convert volume2 to RAID1. (I’ve not selected SHR, but RAID1), reboot
4- Exchange disks in Tray2 and Tray1, reboot
5- Remove disk in Tray 1, reboot -> Degraded status
6- Issue

Putty:
mdadm –grow –raid-devices=1 –force /dev/md2

7- Go to DSM Storage manager, HDD manage, you will have the option to extend volume 2 to get the full available space. Do this. Reboot
8- You must here have a Volume2 using the new hard disk, and with the full available space
9- Insert the previous disk Volume1
10- Here all should be fine, you should have Volume2 unchanged, but on your new HDD, with a whole available space

Three additional comments:
1. He replaced both disks (Basic Volumes 1 and 2) in his diskstation by running two times through the instructions by MathieuM68. Therefor he swapped the instructions on disks, volumes and trays accordingly. It works without problems and afterwards the system runs solid and with the same configuration like before, but with larger disk space of course 😉

2. In order to issue the command “mdadm” on the right RAID device (/dev/md?) I used

Putty:
cat /proc/mdstat

which lists all available RAID devices.

3. He could not issue the command “mdadm” directly, but it works with

Putty
sudo mdadm –grow –raid-devices=1 –force /dev/mdX

Source: https://community.synology.com/enu/forum/17/post/78431

Do you even orbit?

This 2 overviews above are wrong cause ‘they’ used orbit data –around the sun– to calculate how long a planet was in a gate or line, but the movement around the Rave Mandala wheel is an orbit –around Earth-.

So I did some calculations and came up with this:

Mercury as short as 358 days and as long as 405 days, on average 366 days.
Duration in one Gate: ~5.7 days
Duration in a Line: ~22.9 hours

Venus as short as 293 days and as long as 410 days, on average 369 days
Duration in one Gate: ~5.8 days
Duration in one Line: ~23.1 hours

Mars as short as 528 days and as long as 712 days, on average 679 days.
Duration in one Gate: ~11 days
Duration in one Line: ~42.4 hours

maybe 64Keys were right in their overview: